How To Make A Window Seat

As attractive every bit window seats are, simply a few older homes with deep dormers seem to have them. And adding a window seat has always been considered impractical. First, you need a niche that features a window. Then, the seat has to exist custom-built past a cabinetmaker or trim carpenter to fit the exact width and sill height of the window. Not surprisingly, this approach is expensive and time-consuming.

Here'due south how to build a beautiful, custom window seat in just a couple of days using set-made kitchen cabinets. This simple, practice-it-yourself approach provides both the "niche" and the window seat, and an abundance of storage space. This seat was congenital under a vi-foot-wide kitchen window, but its design can easily be adapted for whatsoever size window in virtually any room. The seat is made up of half-dozen kitchen wall cabinets and two 48-inch-alpine bookcase units, which are trimmed with decorative crown molding. The window seat itself is composed of two xv-inch-tall, over-the-refrigerator cabinets set side-by-side.

Step 1

Build the Toekick

Start by building a perimeter base, called the toekick, out of 2x4s or 2x6s to the same top as the existing baseboard. The depth of the toekick must equal the depth of the cabinets, non including their doors. Fasten the toekick together with 3-inch screws; check to make sure it'south level. Anchor the toekick with a couple of screws driven into the floor or wall studs.

Tip: When deciding where to install a window seat, keep in mind that most windows have an air register or baseboard heater below them. (This one did non.) To ensure that the window seat does non block the menses of heat into the room, you must extend the ductwork under the seat and mount the register in the front end of the toekick base. For a hot-water heating organisation, have a heating contractor install a flat toekick radiator with electrical blower nether the window seat.

Step 2

Begin the Assembly

Begin the associates by setting the two over-the-refrigerator cabinets onto the toekick. Center the two units under the window, so clamp them together with their face up frames perfectly affluent.

The cabinets used here feature solid-maple raised-panel doors, concealed hinges, and a love-tone Spice Maple end. The total cost of all the cabinets and prefinished molding was effectually $1,700. If that's a budget-breaker, you can save upwards to twoscore percent by using plastic-laminate cabinets or oak cabinets with recessed, flat-panel doors.

Stride 3

Fasten the Cabinets

Drill through the starting time confront frame and partially into the second one with a countersink drill bit. Exist sure to drill deep enough so that the screw heads are flush with the surface. Fasten the cabinets together with two 2½-inch drywall screws.

Step 4

Install Cabinets to Toekick

Next, install a 12-inch-deep x 24½-inch-alpine 10 thirty-inch-wide cabinet to each end of the toekick. Clamp and screw these end cabinets to the window seat cabinets. Again, be certain the face frames are perfectly flush before driving in the screws.

Stride five

Level and Secure End Cabinets

Check each finish cabinet with a level, then secure information technology to the wall with two screws driven into wall studs. If necessary, place shims behind the cabinets to forestall the screws from pulling them out of alignment.

Footstep vi

Spike Blocks to Add together Summit (if Needed)

The terminate cabinets are topped with 15-inch-tall intermediate cabinets, which then receive the bookcase units. However, before proceeding, fasten half dozen iii½-inch-long 2x2 blocks to the top of each end cabinet. These blocks raised the overall elevation of the cabinets and then that the bookcases reached the soffit above.

Step 7

Fit All Components Together and Install Bookcases

Keep the assembly by setting the intermediate end cabinets on top of the end cabinets and screwing them to the wall. Next, install the bookcase units by first clamping them to the intermediate cabinets, so fastening them with two ½-inch screws driven through the face frames.

Step 8

Conceal the Joints

To create the expect of a custom-made window seat, it's important to utilize matching prefinished moldings and accessories, which are sold by the cabinet manufacturer. Start past concealing the joints between the three cabinets on each finish with prefinished plywood skins. Cutting the skins to length, then attach them with contact cement.

Step nine

Install Waist-Ring and Baseboard Molding

Next, blast the waist-band molding along the joint betwixt the cease cabinets and the intermediate cabinets. This narrow piece of trim covers the large gap created past the 2x2 blocks. Install baseboard molding effectually the lesser of the cabinets to hibernate the rough toekick. If the molding is too tall, rip it down to the proper width on a table saw.

Pace ten

Install Finishing Crown

Boom i½-inch crown molding along the tops of the cabinets. If small spaces remain above the molding, fill up them with caulk. Finally, replace the chiffonier doors, install the adjustable bookshelves and set the upholstered cushion onto the window seat cabinets.

Finally, demand an upholstered, foam-safe seat absorber. This expense will vary depending on the size of the cushion, the material you select, and the quality of the cream.

Source: https://www.thisoldhouse.com/furniture/21016399/how-to-build-a-window-seat

Posted by: mintershersonect.blogspot.com